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This makes four consecutive days in the mountains. My legs were definitely starting to feel it, but with rain forecast for the weekend, I figured, “I'd better get out there today.” So once again, I started with the Tsugaike Gondola.
From Tsugaike Nature Park, it's about a 400-meter climb up to Tenguppara.
From there, today's route followed the Yamanokami Trail down to the Hakuba
Norikura Ski Areaーor, in other words, back to Mahoroba Club. The descent
totals about 1,300 meters of elevation loss. Yes, it's a long way down.
What makes the Yamanokami Trail interesting is the series of wetlands below Tenguppara. The trail winds its way through several marshy areas, descending gradually from one to the next.
The unusual thing is that there isn't really a clearly defined path through the wetlands themselves. There are entry points and exit points, but between them you're essentially free to pick your own line across the marsh.
It's surprisingly refreshing.
Normally, when you think of wetlands, you think of boardwalks.
Not here.
And since these are wetlands, the ground is naturally wet and muddy. Which is why this is one of those routes that makes you appreciate rubber boots.
The entrances and exits of the wetlands, as well as the points where the route leaves streambeds and climbs onto ridges, are marked with pink tape. If you decide to walk this trail, those markers are worth keeping an eye on.
Beyond the wetlands, the route follows a ridge lined with dwarf bamboo on both sides. As you descend, the scenery gradually changes and gives way to beautiful beech forest.
This beech-forest section is especially enjoyable.
Last year's fallen leaves still form a thick carpet on the trail, creating a pleasant crunch underfoot and making for very comfortable walking.
And that soft footing continues almost all the way down to the trailhead near the erosion-control structures in the Kurokawa Valley.
In other words, the remarkable thing about the Yamanokami Trail is that the ground is rarely hard.
For nearly 1,300 vertical meters, you're descending on soft forest floor, fallen leaves, and natural earth.
That's actually pretty special.
It's easy on the legs, you rarely encounter other hikers, and the whole trail feels quiet and peaceful.
I think it's a wonderful route.
My recommendation is to hike it uphill and make Tenguppara your destination. Spend some time relaxing there, then descend through Tsugaike Nature Park. From there, the ropeway and gondola will take you back down to the valley.
If you use Mahoroba Club as your base, you can literally start from the front door. Wake up, get ready, and begin hiking straight from the lodge. That's hard to beat for convenience.
If you enjoy quiet forest walks and the feel of soft natural trails under your feet, I highly recommend this route.
Give it a try sometime.
I've included links to some of my previous trip reports below. Enjoy!
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